Carl Tashian

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Jul 14 02008 2.41p

When I read David Leite’s article about the 36 hour chocolate chip cookie in the Times, I had to try it. The theory is that giving the batter 36 hours in the fridge results in a much better texture, because the flour has time to fully absorb the egg.

The Times cookies are 5 inches in diameter. I’ve generally been skeptical of big cookies like this, but their explanation was reasonable. With a bigger cookie, you’ll ideally get to experience three different textures: a crusty edge, an interior ring that’s somewhere between crusty and soft, and a soft, less-than-done center. A smaller cookie might allow for a more consistent texture (all crust, or all soft), but as Winnie said, variety is the spice of life! And besides, since chocolate chip cookies are a classic American invention, they must be immense (and suitable for eating while driving).

Before 36 hours

Here’s the dough before the 36 hour resting period, and before I added chocolate chips. It’s not exactly wet, but it’s not exactly dry either.

After 36 hours

After 36 hours, and with chips, it’s definitely dryer and sandier and darker.

Batch One

And here comes the first batch! Frankly, I’d rather wait 36 hours for one of these than for an iPhone. The texture was wonderful (neither gritty nor cakey), the chocolate was great (I stole Winnie’s Scharffen-Berger). There was a tinge of baking soda or powder (I couldn’t tell which) that blocked some of the flavor, but this went away in subsequent batches (a day later). Winnie suggested I try making my own baking powder next time, but given the intimidating statistics behind this recipe (2.5 sticks butter, etc.) it’ll probably be a while before I have the appetite for more of these monstrous handheld desserts. And by “a while,” I mean approximately 36 hours from now.

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